Lake Waikaremoana Tramp

This tramp (or hike to those in the USA) has been on my bucket list for quite some time. The last time I went there to do some day tramps with my girlfriends I broke my ankle on the first day so I had unfinished business there.

This trip saw 6 of us ( mature women?) and Marty with boat in tow leave Katikati on a bright clear Saturday morning. We stopped in Te Puke to pick up the 8th member of the crew.


The Blue Truck with boat in tow

Unfortunately Marty's fishing companion Hugh had to bail out after he suffered a mild heart attack a couple of weeks before. Marty hummed and hoed about going but decided a spot of trout fishing on a new lake was too much to turn down. An uneventful journey, avoiding the coffee at Murupara and having a picnic lunch in the Urewera's saw us arrive at the camp site at about 4 o'clock.



Marty checks for signs of trout

The advance party had already arrived and sorted the cabins etc.

The tramp described as the "Great Walk" is about 42km's long around 2/3rds of the lake, through stunning bush. We decided to do it over 3 days (most people take 4 -5 so they can enjoy the scenery and lake), but work commitments meant we had to do the shorter option. W



Our happy group the night before departure

We also decided to do the 'hard day' up the bluff last so we had to catch the water taxi on Sunday morning which would take us to the start of the track. We also decided to use this to transport our packs as we had to carry all our food and cooking gear with us. We will carry packs if we have to but will also take the easy option if it's not to expensive and just carry a day pack. We want to enjoy ourselves not be completely buggered each day.



View of the lake from the water taxi

Day one and we are all keen to get going. The boat was delayed or did it just leave on local time?
We had about 6hrs tramping to get to Marauiti Hut where we would spend the first night.

As we had all day to do it we just ambled along enjoying the bush, and birds. We split into two teams. The A team, who were slimmer and fitter and the B team who were the more mature figures and a bit slower. No guessing for what team I was in.



The A team on one of the many bridges



The B team clamber down a rocky hill

We arrived at the hut about 4pm. I couldn't wait to dump my pack and have a swim. Trudy ventured in with me, the others were all too wimpy!!. It was heaven.



Our hut on day 1

We shared the hut with 4 fishermen and 7 other trampers. All blokes. The fishermen, who hadn't packed earplugs said they didn't get a very good nights sleep whereas we, who all had earplugs slept very well indeed.

With breaky and lunch making out of the way we took our bags down to the lake for collection. It didn't take long for the ducks to arrive and start checking them out for any scraps of food. They were out of luck.



Ducks are soon on the scene

We thought day two was going to be a short easy day. It turned out not to be, and having blisters didn't help! Luckily we had come well prepared for that eventuality and those in need were soon plastered up. Equally stunning bush with a few ups and downs to justify the large quantity of nibbles we had all bought along.


Both A and B teams head off together


Old trees rotting

The day progressed and we seemed to be getting no nearer to our destination. Every tramper we came across told us it was 2hrs to the hut so we eventually gave up and just kept walking.At last we came to the turnoff to a waterfall which was 30 mins each way. A late lunch was held there, but not before we had to do a river crossing with the aid of a wire rope.


Jutta watches waiting for someone to slip....

The waterfall was a great spot to have lunch, although only 2 bothered to climb down to the bottom. The rest of us were content to sit and the top and admire the view and slap the odd sandfly.



The Waterfall



A much needed lunch break.

Another 2 hours and we were at the hut. We stumbled across Marty a short distance before the hut. He was trying his luck fishing off the shore as he had had no luck from the boat.



Marty fishing



Everyday we had a few swing bridges to cross

I was knackered by the time I got to the hut, the last 20 mins seeming to take forever but another swim in the lake soon revived me. There was another round of blister maintenance before we set to preparing our dinner. The fresh milk that Marty bought for us meant that there was no demand what so ever for the powdered variety.

This hut was a little flashier than the previous one and we had our own room, the other being occupied by a group of school girls from Gisborne.



Josie and Trudy pose on the deck of hut No. 2

Day three, didn't start to well. Trudy had hurt her back the previous night attending to her blisters and there was no way she could carry on. (she slipped a disc!) Nothing for it but to leave her behind to catch the boat back when it picked up the luggage. We left her with food and water and set off. We made a very early(7.15am) start as it was a 9hr tramp with some very steep ground to be negotiated and the A team were concerned that the B team wouldn't make it. Oh thee of little faith!




Fresh as daisies at the start of day 3

I decided that I would desert my fellow B team member today and walk at my own pace as that is a much easier way to cope with steep uphills and long down hills. So I became a B+ /A- tramper for the day. The trek up to Panekiri Hut on the top of the Bluff wasn't nearly so hard as we'd thought it would be and Jutta and I were the first ones there, 35mins ahead of the suggested time. Unfortuenatly the weather had closed in and the views were non existant!



The view from the top. 2 1/2 days walking for this!!

Thermals and rain coats were put on at the lunch stop. I was very glad I'd changed my mind about taking them out of my pack that morning. Despite the change in weather it wasn't all bad. It made the walk through the bush quite eerie, and a whole new experience. We thought we were on the downhill trek after lunch but no, we kept going up an up and up for at least another hour and a half. The downhill when it came lasted about 2 1/2hrs!!







The mist made things feel quite eerie

Four of us made a detour to Lake Kiriopukae, 20 mins return off the main track. Nothing special about the lake but there were three old grave sites there. One an armed constables, another unmarked but possibly his wife as they were together, another man and a 9mth old baby.



This headstone points out the dangers of the times

4 o'clock and we were in the carpark waiting for Marty to pick us up and for Josie and Beate to arrive. Beate had joined the B team to keep Josie company. Apparently when Josie had her "energy drink" Beate had a hard time keeping up with her. So despite the A teams concerns for our safety we both made it under the 9hr guideline.



Jutta and I wrapped warmly, waiting to go back to camp

Back at camp we met up with Trudy who had had her own adventures during the day. She'd been cast on the bench seat, lost her book under the verandah of the hut never to be seen again, the boat was delayed and she could hardly get on board when it did. A rough crossing back to camp arriving within minutes of us.

We had a self contained cabin for the night so while I waited to have a much needed hot shower I sat back an enjoyed the rum and coke Marty poured for me. He hadn't needed it to smoke the trout - lucky me! They proved way to elusive to catch this time round.

And so another thing is crossed off the bucket list. Roll on the Tongariro Crossing early next year.

2500kms in 7 days

Our overseas trip this year was to the top of the South Island on the bikes riding some gravel back roads before they become sealed. We were joined by three of our friends from Whangarei, so the night before departure the house was full of people and the garage full of BMW's loaded and ready to go.

The weather forecast was less than perfect and it looked like we would get wet before we had even go to Tauranga but it blew away and we were spared. An easy ride through to Rotorua where we stopped for gas and checked out why my bike had become so noisy. Turned out I had a lost a rubber pad that sat under my chain and the chain was rubbing on the swing arm, becoming very loud at low revs. Marty tightened the chain which helped a bit but I would have to live with it till we got home and a new one could be bought.

We stopped in Murupara for a coffee (very bad), leg stretch and loo stop. Murupara is a run down logging town where the majority are now unemployed and gang problems are a major problem. Having said that the locals we met were very friendly and happy to chat to us. One guy was very surprised to find out we were kiwis. He said only tourists (probably lost) ever stopped there. He then went onto to explain how the town was in a bowl and the bad weather just passed over them, in fact everything passed over them even God. An old lady (in her 70's) stopped and told us her son and grandson both had bikes and lived in Galatea. So a big Zero for coffee and 10 for friendliness. The toilets were surprisingly clean to. Haha.

A few kms out of town the 100km of gravel started. Tim and Jorg sped off leaving me to lead out Marty and Beate. That was never going to last long and after a short stop to recheck my chain after sliding around a corner - wrong gear - loose gravel being the real reason, Marty took the lead. I much prefer this on windy gravel roads as I don't worry so much about vehicles coming the other way. The road to lake Waikaremoana takes us through Te Urewera Ranges, which has to be some of the most beautiful bush in New Zealand.




The beautiful Urewera's



Marty waits for the girls - again!

We stopped for lunch at a picnic stop along the way. There was a picnic table but no top and the seat wasn't attached so when Marty sat on one end he nearly catapulted our food into the bush.

Eventually the lake came into sight. It was beautiful.



First glimpse of Lake Waikaremoana.

The road along the lake was gorgeous.


Me and Beate enjoying the ride



Marty went on ahead and stopped on a bridge for a photo shoot.



You can just see Marty on the bridge

We dropped in at the information centre, our gear covered in dust and cracked up when the German lady behind the counter said to Marty, "Are you on a motorcycle?" He replied, "No, I always dress like this when I'm in a car."

A short stop at the campsite further down the road to confirm our booking for our December tramping/fishing trip and we were off on the last stretch of gravel before rejoining the seal and the lovely easy winding road to Wairoa where we refueled. I took the lead for the first 70 odd km then Marty noticed I was becoming a bit tired (I mucked up a couple of corners) so he took over and I dropped back into the bunch. A much more relaxing position! We stopped again by Lake Tutira and against all rules we all (except Marty) had a small 'tot' of snaaps.


Lake Tutira


Time for a wee snaaps

It was just the reviver we needed after a long hot day . Half an hour later we pulled into our motel on the outskirts of Napier. 442kms for the day.

Not the best sleep in the world - small bed, hot cabin but it meant we were up early and on the road by 9am. But not before I discovered that the 2 jars of Achar (my homemade Indian chutney) which were travelling in my topbox had collided on the gravel the day before resulting in one jar breaking and throwing its contents in and through everything I had stashed in there. What a mess! What a smell. I had to hose it out. My road map will never be the same again!

Our plan for the day was to ride over the Gentle Annie to Taihape then down to friends in Wellington for the night before catching the ferry the next day. The Annie is slowly being sealed with only about 15-20km of gravel left, but it still an awesome road for motorcycles.



Not a speedy road by any means



Beate got a bit hot and bothered and had to strip

We stopped in Taihape for lunch and were joined by our friend Hartles from Auckland. He and Marty had a strange encounter with an odd bloke at the cafe. Hartles offered him a cigarette, Marty chimed in that it was all rolled ready to go and the reply was a less than friendly, "Keep your business to yourself" and he got up and stormed off down the road. Beate's passing comment of "Well that sure killed the conversation" had us in fits of laughter.

An uneventful ride down St Hway 1, (apart from the usual amount of cops patrolling the Hunterville straights) to the Johnsonville turnoff where we headed out to Makaroi, where our friends Lyn and Deane live. I hate this road. It is very narrow, windy and the surface is crap. It didn't help that my chain was making a really awful noise which was quite off putting. Still I made it and was very glad to be there. Lyn fed and watered us all like only Lyn can. She is a great hostess not to mention cook. I had a few nips Dean's OP rum before hitting the hay about 10pm. 414km for the day.

We were up at 5.30 and on our way to the ferry by 7am. We were lucky enough to board as soon as we arrived so it was straight to some comfy seats and more shut eye. I felt very tired. A very smooth sailing, followed by lunch at an english style pub in Renwick which set us up for the ride through to Murchison.



By the time we reached St Arnaud the weather had changed, rain looked likely and it had become quite cold so we stopped and put our wet weather gear on. It didn't rain but I was glad of the wind proofing the extra layer provided. I was nice and warm again.

We turned off St Hway 63 and headed out to Lake Rotoroa. Marty wanted to stop and have a look around the lake but everyone else carried straight on to the Braeburn Track. The first few kms weren't that much fun as it was very thick gravel and you had to be extremely careful. Thankfully it did improve and with the four river crossings it made for an interesting ride. I hit one crossing a bit fast and was rewarded with a large shower of water over me and the bike. Thank goodness I was dressed for it!

The last 22 odd km was sealed and a perfect motorcycling road. I really enjoyed it.

By the time we arrived at the pub in Murchison our numbers had swelled to 19. After dinner and a couple of wines It was off to bed. Took me a while to get to sleep as I thought there were rats in the ceiling. Turned out to be birds!
An easy day today only 230kms.



Marty was the only one not to feel the cold in Murchison.
A small dump of snow fell in the night!

Saturday was the start of the Vincent Owner's Riders Rally. To make the rally official we did have 6 Vincents taking part but the majority of the bikes were BMW's. We headed off towards the Buller Gorge. A fantastic ride if weather conditions are right and they were. About half way through we came across Bob and Claire (BMW's) on the side of the road. A petrol leak, so good excuse for everyone to stop and offer advise.




Even the Vincent riders couldn't resist stopping

Once the problem was sorted we headed off to our next port of call which was Blackball and more specifically the "Formerly the Blackball Hilton" pub for a late morning tea. Years ago Mr Hilton, father of Paris (say no more) took this little pub to court for calling themselves the Blackball Hilton. They lost of course but are now equally famous for being called "Formerly the Blackball Hilton". Also up the road is a great little salami place which did a roaring trade while we were there.



Us at the Formerly Blackball Hilton



Vincent riding is thirsty work!!

We left Blackball suitably fuelled and took the Atarau Road through to Ikamatua. We had never done this road always crossing the river and going up the other side. It was well worth it. The scenery was stunning and almost no traffic. We met up with everyone else in Reefton for lunch and a wander around this historic little town. It was the first town in NZ to get electricity.






Replicas of the original lights line the streets

We left Reefton with the threat of bad weather on the Lewis Pass. At Springs Junction this looked likely so we stopped and added another layer. We had patches of rain but nothing significant but the temperature plummeted so I was again very glad of the insulation my wet weather gear provides. According to Mel's thermometer on his bike it dropped to about 7 degC!!

There was one more bit of gravel road to deal with and that was the Leslie Hills Road to Waiau. This was a tricky piece to ride and required a bit of concentration but it was mastered and made the first rum and coke at the pub all the more enjoyable. 450km



The Waiau Hotel celebrated it's 100th anniversary the week before our arrival

We had a great stay at the Waiau pub. It is beautiful and has been well looked after. The publican was a bit stunned when we all arrived, (some hadn't booked) and the cooks were stretched to fed us, but they did and it was delicious. I'll definitely stay there again.

And so ended the Riders Rally for another year, it was time to head home. The publican had organised with the local garage owner to open up for us Sunday morning so we could all get gas. You don't get that kind of service in the big smoke!! We left with our group, but a couple of minutes down the road Marty discovered he had a flat tyre so by the time we had that sorted the group was long gone. We took the Inland Kaikoura Road, stopping every so often to check Marty's tyre. It never went down so we suspect foul play!!



Stunning scenery on the Inland Road

We arrived at our friends in Blenheim about 2. Marty met our fellow riders at Peter Jackson's air museum. I opted to stay behind and relax. I was too hot and bothered to go any further, even though it had been a short ride. Only 225km for the day. Our friends invited everyone around for a BBQ that night, even picking them up and delivering them back to their hotel at Spring Creek so beers flowed and tales were told well into the night. Marty did a make shift repair to my bike as the noise was now horrendous - even for those travelling behind me.

Back on the ferry and the final push for home.



It is always sad to leave the South




Marty takes time out to relax

Marty and I were travelling over the Rimautaka's and heading up to Onga Onga to spend the night with my brother and his wife. The others were heading north via Raetihi.
We arrived in Onga about 7.30pm having stopped in Masterton to visit a couple of people.
Somewhere between Featherston and Masterton I lost my repair and the noise was back. Luckily Andrew(my brother) had the correct part hanging in his shed, albeit a bit worn and it was soon fitted.
310km for the day.

After a short visit to some people in Waipawa it was a straight run home. The silence from my new old rubber was deafening!

415 km

A great week. I needed to go to work for a rest.

Orchard Update.

We have been very busy in the orchard over winter with much needed maintenance.




The end assemblies were finally finished and we were able to start on replacing the old wooden structures with Ag Beam. I was used as the gopher and had to haul the Ag Beam from where it had been delivered up into the orchard. It was in 8 metre lengths and quite heavy so it was a long slow progress until Marty had a brainwave and discovered with careful balancing we could load it around the driver on the tractor. I much preferred this way.



All the old timber, which was well passed its use by date had to be taken out. Marty chain sawed it into moveable pieces and I pulled it out and loaded it onto to the tractor to be taken to the burning pile.





We had a couple of vine lifters made so that we could lift the vines up enough to put the ag beam in place. They were invaluable.



We enlisted the help of our neighbour to speed up the job. Being younger he got to do any digging to correct post angles and anything else not suited to the over 50's.





The Ag Beam had to be joined using specially made joiners.





The final stage in the operation was the dumping of the old wooden structures onto the burning pile. I missed major injury when a 6 inch nail caught on my trou when I threw a piece onto the pile.



Time to start the next big job. This involved putting up netting along the easterly end of each block. This is to help reduce wind damage and increase temperatures under the canopy. His and hers vehicles were required for the job.




Marty had to do this by himself until the last block as I had to work. Earn real money!! By this time he had it down to a fine art and i was only needed to go back to the shed to get stuff we had forgotten or run out of.

First the netting had to be laid out allong the row.



Then one end was secured to the post and the wire threaded through. This was done by putting the wire on a spinning jenny, attaching it to the pre-threaded cord and Marty using brute strength to pull it through.






The next job was to lift the netting up onto the posts. It was quite a heavy job!





The final job was to attach to the end posts and staple the netting onto the posts in the rows.



Job done.