Ready to hit the road on our epic journey south
Luckily we were loaded straight onto the boat so didn't have to stand about getting even wetter. About an hour out of Wellington the sun came out so we lay on the seats at the rear of the boat and tried to dry out. We had to hang around in Picton and wait for our friends who had caught the Inter Islander which left half an hour after us. Once we finally re grouped we decided to abandon our attempt at crossing Murderers Pass which runs from just south of Pelorous to Nelson. There had just been too much rain to make it passable. We'll save it for another day.
Headed straight over to Nelson via Queen Charlotte Drive. A beautiful road spoilt only by the cars and camper vans that use it. Marty developed a steering problem on the way so once in Nelson we called in on our friends Bob and Claire and the boys proceeded to deal with the problem while Beate and I relaxed in the sunshine chatting to Claire. My brother Andrew arrived soon after our arrival and once Marty's bike was fixed we followed him to their new abode about 10 mins drive away. They have a lovely place, close to town but even closer to a big recreational park for walking, mountain biking etc which is a perfect place for their dogs Reg and Hollie to stretch their little terrier legs. After a cuppa and a shower we headed into town to visit a bike museum. Loads of interesting bikes for the guys to drool over but after an hour or so the girls put the pressure on to leave and go to the Indian Restaurant for dinner to celebrate Trish's birthday.
Had a good nights sleep and woke to a fine day. Finished drying our gear out and waited for Tim and Beate to arrive which they did about 11. Had a good ride through to the Owen River Hotel where we stopped for lunch and enjoyed a drink infront of the open fire.
The ride through the Buller Gorge was awesome. Very little traffic so we could get along at a nice uninterrupted pace. Somehow I ended up as leader - not a position Beate and I enjoy!!, but the boys were happy with the pace I set and commented later that they had obviously been holding us up. Arrived in Westport around 4 and decided to go with Marty's idea of riding up to Granity and staying in the pub there for the night. What a great idea it was. We got cabins overlooking the beach for $60 including breakfast for two. Went for a walk through town and along the beach before having a nice meal in the pub, a few drinks and thrashing the Stelzers at pool. All in all a good time was had by all.
Marty walking along the beach
Sunset
On the road by 9 and heading up to Denniston and a look around Burnetts Face the site of an old coal mining area, steeped in history. Our friend Tim loves gravel roads and exploring any that he finds which meant we rode every one around Denniston until he eventually found the one he was looking for and that was a 4 wheel drive/mountain bike track that lead to a TV and Trig station site on the top of Mount Rochford. (1040m). This was quite a challenging ride for me.
The final climb
The last 8 odd kms were steep, rocky and no real road in places so it was just pick a line and go for it.
The track to Mt Rochford and view back to Denniston
Beate failed at the first steep hill so she decided to wait there for us and be the photographer when we returned.
Me at the top. What a relief!!
I was very glad to reach the top and was a bit nervous about the downward journey and consequently stalled the bike on the first hairpin turn, but I made myself relax and set off again. Had a couple of hairy moments, including one where I ended up sideways across the track and the sound of Marty's bike ringing in my ears so made a very hasty correction which saw me shoot off at a huge rate of knots when I accidentally gave the bike a bit too much wellie. All good fun!!
The final descent
Another road conquered and we were off to Westport for lunch, then on towards Stillwater. We stopped at the old Brunner Mine site and Tim thought it would be a good idea to ride across the old bridge but after studying the gate entrance and the width of his bike with panniers decided we wouldn't fit but Marty took up the challenge and headed across. made it but the exit to the road on the pother side was a problem so he had to come back.
The Brunner Bridge
We carried on towards Lake Brunner, stopping at the little town of Moana for a look before following the road around the lake and onto a neat little gravel road that lead to Mitchell and Kumara. Awesome ride. It was then an easy ride down the coast to Hokitika where we gassed up and then headed to Ross and the pub where we spent the night.
Historic Empire Hotel in Ross.
The pub had had a bit of a influx of visitors so the menu was pretty depleted but in true west coast fashion we were well fed. The roast came with chips and salad but tasted pretty good. A few ales and it was off to bed with spits of rain falling.
On the road at 8.30, heading south in fine weather. Struck a bit of thick fog around Lake Ianthe but it soon cleared. Leg stretch in Franz Josef and Beate became the parking Queen after exhibiting some rather dismal parking skills which she repeated a little further up the road when we stopped at a pub for lunch. After using the loos and checking out the prices we made a hasty get away. Daylight robbery!! So we went onto Haast where we were equally gouged but hunger got the better of us all. Booked into a backpacker type motel, unloaded our bikes and headed down to Jackson Bay. This is a one way in and out ride but well worth it.
Us on the wharf at Jackson Bay
We headed back towards Haast but took a side road (gravel of course) that took us down to the Cascade Valley.
Cascade Valley
A very beautiful ride alongside the Jackson River. After 20kms we reached private property so had to turn around and head home.
Crossing the Jackson River Bridge and stopping to admire the view
The view up the Jackson River
We took a side road to the beach with the intention of going for a walk. It looked beautiful but unbeknown to us their lurked a hidden danger, not visible to the naked eye until one stops to admire the scenery.
The beach looked inviting but the reality was different
We first noticed this danger when Marty sat on a log to have a smoke. There was an instant black cloud around his head followed by arms flaying in all directions. Sandflies!
Marty stops for a smoke
We beat a hasty retreat back to our bikes and the safely of our motel. Haast has nothing going for it really. It is a tourist trap for food and accommodation. The cheapest meal at the pub was for a salad - no meat just greenery for $26. We resorted to a couple of packets of the Freeze Dri food we had bought along for just such emergencies.
Up early and a chilly ride over the Haast Pass. We had the road virtually to ourselves. Stopped at Makarora for breaky and then at Lake Hawea for gas before heading over Thompsons Track. This was a stunning ride. The scenery was breath taking.
The track wasn't hard to ride and not all the gates were closed
Marty does his turn on one of the closed gates
and the 5 odd fords we had to cross were pretty easy.
One of the Fords
At the top of the track miles from anywhere my biked died. To be more exact the battery "shit itself". Not a good place to call the AA.
Inspection work is carried out
Luckily I was at the top of a hill so I was able to bump start the bike into life. Any stops to view the scenery had to be done with the motor left on which was to have repercussions later on in the day.
This old stone cottage was out the back of nowhere
Views for Africa despite the hazy day
An uneventful ride to St Bathans where we stopped at the old Vulcan Pub, supposedly haunted for lunch.
The Old Vulcan Hotel
An old open cast mine is now a lovely recreational lake.
The ride to St. Bathans did nothing to improve the starting ability of my battery so we headed to Ranfurly in the hope of getting a new one. Being Easter Thursday we were desperate to get one before the long weekend. We tried every possible shop here to no avail and in the process the fan on my bike cooked itself so no more sitting around idling for me, I had to keep on the move. The decision was made that Marty and I would make a dash for Oamaru via the Pig Route and Tim and Beate would head onto Kurow as planned. We had a quick ride to Oamaru arriving at the auto electrician at 4.30. No probs he said. Bring the bike in. And wouldn't you know it once we got the battery out it turned out he didn't have one!. Marty tried the bike shop across the road but no luck there either. Seems BMW batteries are a bit different to other bikes. All was not lost as there were still two more bike shops to try. They jump started me and off we went. The Honda shop was first on the radar so while I did a couple of circuits around the block. Marty went in see if they could help. Despite not having the right battery the mechanic was confident he could adapt one to fit which he did. While he was at it he cut the wires to the fan to prevent any other damage being done. At 4.55pm we were racing again. The Rally site for the VIncent Owners Club Easter Rally was only 20km up the road but we had another day of gravel planned and I didn't want to miss it so we headed up to Kurow where Tim and Beate had a cool beer waiting for us. The last 40km was a painful ride as I had a cop on my tail so had to stick to the speed limit! I hope he found it as boring as I did.
An early and cool start as we headed off up the Hakataramea Road. This was sealed for the first 20 odd kms then it turned into ball bearing marble gravel which is never much fun. Eventually it turned into more rideable gravel and a more enjoyable ride.
Marty and I at the top of the Hakataramea Pass
Bikes ready for the downward trail
Once we were off the Haka we headed left ,well three went left and one (me) nearly went right before being herded back in, onto Haldon Road which took us after a very dusty 30kms to the Black Forest Station Homestead. We needed to get permission to ride the Station Road, but no one was home. We searched high and low for someone to no avail. As Tim and Beate had done this road earlier in the year and knew the cost and hopefully the gate combination at the other end we decided to risk it and continue on. We left our money and a note on the doorstep and headed off. This road runs from the top of Lake Benmore to the bottom and is a 50km of sheer fun.
The Black Forest Station Track
Marty stops to admire the view to Lake Benmore
Marty's topbox started to fall apart half way through so he had to bungy it all together. It worked well for a while but when he decided to overtake Tim it let go and all his wordly goods where thrown on the road infront of Tim. Beate and I arrived to find them have a good old laugh and collecting up the offending items.
Tim, Marty and the exploding top box
We redistributed the items amongst us, threw what remained of the topbox over the bank and continued on our way. We had a dry riverbed crossing to navigate which was a bit exciting. It was like surfing without water in places.
Marty and I cross the dry river bed
Tim makes it out alive.
We celebrated the ride with honey sandwiches made at the pub before we left and a swig of water. It was an awesome ride. I'd do it again anyday.
We followed the road around the back of Lake Aviemore to Kurow where we gassed up and had lunch before continuing over the Menzies Pass to Waimate and the Vincent Rally at Gunns Camp.
A set of very dirty BMW's
It was nice to stay put for a couple of days and catch up with our friends who had come from all over to be at the rally. Also managed to get some washing done. A week or so in the same clothes and it is time for a change!
There was a bush walk close to the camp so one afternoon we did that. There was heaps of native birds singing in the bush and flying around us. I just loved it.
A cheeky little robin
Marty and I with Bob and Claire
Wouldn't you just know it. The morning we are to leave it rains. The planned ride up to the Trig Station was abandoned and we headed off towards Omarama via Mt Harris and Peak River roads. Nice little quiet country backroads. The rain had stopped and the sun was out by the time we reached Omarama for lunch. Well a pie from the gas station. With us and the bikes refuelled we headed off to Mt Cook.
Mount Cook
Last time I was there was in February 1975 when I was on my Air Force Recruit Course and my girlfriends and I took one of the last DC10 flights there. It has changed abit with a new Hermitage Building. Don't like the changes. We had a wander around the Sir Edmund Hillary Exhibition before heading off to explore some of the other backroads.
Me, Sir Ed and Marty
We took the road towards the Tasman Glacier. Once at the carpark Tim spied another track that led into the hills so like sheep we followed. Was quite a rough track and after about 15mins we decided we didn't have enough time to ride to the end so we retraced our tracks to the carpark where Beate's bike decided to stop and not restart. A wire had broken which meant her ignition switch wouldn't work but with a bit of jiggery poke and colourful language we were off once again. She just had to remember not to stop or stall as restarting involved quite a bit of taking off and putting on of panels.
Leaving Tasman Glacier
A chilly ride over Burkes Pass saw us arrive in Fairlie about 5pm but there was no room at the inn. The publican told us she was booked out and that we should leave town. I said there were motels in town we could go there but she was adamant we left and left straightaway. Turns out it was the end of the Easter Show Weekend and the locals get a bit carried away and there is usually trouble of one sort or another. We took her advise and set off for Geraldine where thankfully we were able to get a bed at the pub.
Tim was up early and got Beate's bike sorted so we were on the road by 9.30 heading towards Reefton on the Inland Road. All was going well till about 12km from Darfield and then it all went pear shaped. I was riding No3 and as we came over a slight brow we were straight into a huge pile of thick mud that had been left on the road by some logging trucks.
Mud, glorious mud!!
I got into a slide which I held for quite a while but then I lost it and down I went, sliding along the grass verge (thankfully) for about 20 metres before coming to a halt.
Beate was more shell shocked than me
Damage to me was minimal. Bruised leg and shoulder and a sore ankle. The bike had a few war wounds but was still rideable. Marty went to see the farmer. We thought he was having tea and scones he was away so long. Armed with the name of the trucking firm we headed into Darfield to report it to the police but we came across the trucking firms depot first so stopped in there and Marty went in and saw them. They were very apologetic and the manager came out and took a look at the damage and said they would happily pay all costs. (They have and my bike has returned to it's former glory and my damaged clothing replaced).
That sorted we were able to go and have lunch in the local bakery. Here we spoke to a couple of bikers who had just come across the Porters Pass and said it was snowing so we had a quick huddle and decided to head to Akoroa instead. Booked into the Little River Pub, unloaded our gear and set out to explore the Akoroa Peninsula's many gravel roads. We revisited Jubilee Hill, an old nemesis of mine. It didn't seem half as scary as it was the first time I rode down on it on my old AJS. I was very tired by the time we got back and could hardly think straight. Think I got a bit of a knock on the head when I fell off. So after a couple of rums and a lovely dinner of scallops and salad I went to bed and left the others to decide on tomorrow's adventure.
To say I rode like a wally today would be an understatement. My off yesterday was definetly having an effect on my confidence and riding windy, steep gravel roads was not the place to be riding like a wally.
The upright members of our group. Marty, Tim and Beate
We did however have a great day riding all around the Peninsula.
Marty with Akoroa Harbour in the background
We went to Flea Bay which was a particulary steep downhill ride. Beate and I had tramped into here when we did the Akoroa Peninsula Walk a couple of years ago.
Me at Flea Bay
The steep uphill ride out never seemed to eventuate and before I knew it we were several kms away on the beach at Okaines Bay.
Bikes on the Beach at Okaines Bay
I was starting to feel pretty tired by the time we left here and headed for Little Akaloa. The scenery around the Peninsula is stunning and we took time to stop and enjoy it. Shortly after leaving Little Akola I decided I didn't want to do corners anymore (I may have fallen asleep!) and I ended up horizontal on the grass yet again. Just another bruise and wounded pride. Was glad to get back to the Hotel and hang my helmet up for the day.
Next morning we headed off to Christchurch via Geddes Pass. Wasn't a fun ride due to sunstrike.
We saw a bit of the earthquake damage as we rode through the outskirts of Lyttleton to the tunnel. We stopped at our friends place in Christchurch. They live in n old quarry and had a bit of damage in the big quake with boulders coming down and flattening sheds. Luckily no one was hurt. The boys did a bit of maintenance on the bikes then we headed to visit another friend before heading up to Blenheim where we were spending our last night in the South Island before crossing the ditch for home.
I got separated from the bunch just before the Hundalee's as the boys had stopped to wait for Beate and I but I sailed right on past them. I decided I had to have a bit of riding on my own and try and get my groove back and with he windey Hundalee's coming up it was the perfect opportunity. It worked and I started to feel very comfortable and relaxed - until I saw Marty and Tim loom up behind me in my rear vison mirror. It's like seeing Darth Vadar and his sidekick! Oh well at least no mishaps today!
Marty and I were on the early ferry so we left Tim and Beate in bed and made our way to Picton for a 7am check in only to find the ferry had been delayed due to bad weather. Not to worry there was a bunch of blokes on their way north to the Ariel Owners Rally and we knew a couple of them so had a good old chin wag and before we knew it we were on the boat and heading to Wellington.
I spent the weekend at the GBS Conference while Marty, Tim and Beate enjoyed the hospitality of our friends Lynne and Dean. Marty picked me up from the Conference Sunday morning and we loaded up the bikes and headed north to Raetihi via the Wanganui River Road, but first we had to negotiate the Foxton Straights. The wind was awful. Blowing us all over the road so it was a relief to stop for a cuppa at Bulls and then head west out of the winds.
The Wanganui River
Marty and I have never ridden the Wanganui River road but it is definelty a road we will do again. It is lovely. We would have like to have stopped and had a look around Jerasulem but there just wasn't time. We arrived in Raetihi on dark as it was.
Me overlooking the Wanganui River
Rain greeted us for the last day of the trip! We headed off to National Park and the Whakapapa Ski Village to check out and book the accomodation for next years Vincent Rally. Strong winds and rain made riding not so much fun. We parted company from Tim and Beate here, with us heading to Turangi via the Saddle and then on to Taupo and home. We rode out of the crappy weather not far from Whakapapa and had a good ride home till Rapurapu Road. Here the wind picked up and just as we reached the intersection of Rapurapu Road and the Kaimais it turned gusty and blew us across the road. Marty was lucky enough to be on the widest stretch of the road. I on the other hand wasn't and got blown across the road, off my bike and then proceeded to roll 14 ft down the bank till stopped by a fence. All I could say as I tumbled down the bank was "Not a Bloody Gain". By the time I had clambered to the top Marty had come back to be my knight in shining armour and get me and my steed upright yet again. The wind was so strong it blew his bike over despite it being parked into the wind and it took me all my strength to hold it upright while he picked my bike up. The ride up the Kaimais was pretty scary but once at the top the wind calmed down and we had an easy ride home even though it was wet. I was very glad to park up in the shed. It had been quite an eventful adventure. 4540kms
Can't wait for the next one.
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